Now it is time to finish off your trolley ready to race ..
Time to drill out the hand hold in the back rest - using a hole saw then jigsaw out the opening and sand smooth.
Once you have the front axle all made up with tiller block you slip it back into the trolley one end at a time and put a screw through where the pivot bolt will go - as close to the tiller block as a washer will allow (you can cut into the bottom of the block a bit to allow the washer to slip under). The axle should line up parallel with the front edge of the base and be exactly centered across the trolley and the screw goes in the centre.
Drill out the ends of the hand holds in the tiller.
Then cut them out with your jigsaw and sand the edges smooth.
Now install the tiller - Remove the top and install the tiller into the slot in the top of the tiller block - make sure the axle is at right angle to the trolley body when the tiller handle is centered between the side of the trolley - fasten by screwing in place as shown.
Install the tiller support under the tiller around the area
where the tiller expands
Install this a little higher so that holds the tiller up a little higher that its normal resting place (this stops the kid from ripping the steering out in an excited moment of racing).
Now remove the screw and drill your axle pivot through the axle ply and into the pivot block using the hole made by the screw - use a 8 mm HT bolt here with washer top and bottom and a Nylock nut .... tighten till tiller and steering feels nice - make the hole as tight as you can and wind the bolt in ..... if it too loose you will have sloppy steering which will only get worse ...
Now is a good time to sand your trolley down making all the dovetails are smooth and flush and edges sanded and rounded off a bit - last thing we want is a splinter in your kid 1/2 way down the hill ... very distracting to driving !!
Next it is time to install some wheels.....so cut some 100 x 50 and install against the inside back edge of the trolley on each side as shown below.
Glue and screw the 4x2's in place. Then measure 100mm back from the back edge of the trolley side and square up and across the bottom.
Measure your wheel's radius and subtract 50 to 60 mm (this allows for 50 to 60 mm of ground clearance for your trolley).
Measure up the difference and mark where you wheel will mount (eg for a 200 mm dia wheel will be 100-60 = 40 mm if you are using the max wheel size of 300 mm you would be 150 -60 = 90mm up which means you would need to use 150 x50 timber inside the back wall of the trolley so that the axle bolt goes through this block).
The diameter of the bolt you use depends on the bearing size of your wheels BUT you will need to use high tensile bolts to hold your wheels on. Blacks have lots.
Drill a 1/2 sized hold from each side.
unless you have a drill press you should drill from both sides s that the hole is nice and square or get someone to sight your drilling.
Then drill a hole just under size of your bolt .... install a large flat washer, as shown, on your bolt and thread into the hole.
Holding the wash tight down on the bolt, drill two small holes in the washer top and bottom, countersink the holes then glue with Gorilla glue and screw the washer in place.
This is important to install as it gives your axle bolts something solid to bear on when the load comes on them.
Repeat on the other side and leave 24 hours to dry.
Once dry install your wheels with a small washer on each side , making sure it does not touch the outside of the bearing.
Now do up the NYLOCK nut on the inside so it is just tight ( very important to use lock nuts everywhere as plain nuts will rattle loose 1/2 way down Collingwood St !!
Now you are ready to install the front wheels on the front axle
Cut 2 blocks of hardwood for these ... approx size 50 mm thick x 60 mm deep by 110 mm long. These are then mounted on the axle as below - make sure they are nice and square with the axle.
Clamp and pre-drill one hole and install a #8 1 1/2" long screws ( square head are the best to drive in).
Measure the clearance of the block and your front wheel size to work out where the hole should be giving you 50 to 60 mm of ground clearance.
Install the brake pedal as shown ( check where the best position is for your driver )it has 3 holes driledl in down the side next to the side and use an old door or gate hinge.
The three holes are so you can thread the brake rope through the bottom one then back through the middle one and back through the top one and then tie it off to a screw in the back of the brake pedal - the only rope to use here is 5 mm Dyneema from Burnsco ... it is totally non stretch and works great.
Now you need to set up your brake as show below.
You have two bits of wood the same as the rear axle supports screwed either side of the slot in the base. Then between them goes the brake which is a 4x2 with a curve on each end ...the bottom has an old bit of car tyre glued and screw on it.The top has a grove for the rope.
You will need to put your trolley on a flat surface to work out where to pivot and place the brake ... you want a bit of ground clearance when it is held in the off position by the bungy cord but you don't want it too high .... when you apply the brake full on you should be able to lift the trolley rear wheels off the ground.
Now install a 2x2 cross bar almost level with the top of the brake when fully on.
Your Dyneema rope then gets stapled on the back side of the brake and goes through a hole drilled in the brake, then up over the grove and through a wee pulley (also from Burnsco) and across the right hand side where you install the second pulley.
You then drill a hole through the back rest level with this back cross bar and feed the rope through it and up to your brake pedal.
Now install a second cross bar on the rear of the back rest, just under the head hole... now your bungy goes from here over the two groves in the first cross bar and gets stapled to the back bottom corner of the brake.
You will need to have the pedal almost vertical with the rope - just tight against the bungy.
Now you need to make on the underside of the top where this point is and you instal the brake stop on the underside of the top.
Now you can reinstall the top for the last time ... making sure the brake pedal rests tight up against the stop.
Now you are DONE ... and it is time for a test push and here is what a bunch of them look like before paint
and here is what they look like after letting the kids loose at Resene Paint Day
any questions ... just email us